The once heavily polluted Copenhagen harbour has become a hallmark of sustainable development. What used to be a dumping ground for wastewater from sewers and nearby industries is now an all-year swimming hotspot for locals and visitors looking to take the plunge in some of the finest harbour water there is.
Come rain and shine, the 10 swimming zones that are scattered across Copenhagen’s harbour are rarely empty. In winter, keen swimmers will brave the freezing temperatures to get a cold water fix before they head to a nearby sauna to thaw. During the summer months, the harbour baths are popular places for swimming, fishing and sunbathing, and finding a free waterfront spot to place your towel can be as tricky as getting a seat on the metro during peak hours.
It’s no wonder that Copenhagen Harbour has become a key attraction in its own right. Surrounded by beautiful architecture, incredible bike bridges and delicious restaurants and food markets, it’s the ideal place to take in the city. And when you find yourself among the hustle and bustle, it can seem unthinkable that swimming in the harbour once was a no-go. But, the position of Copenhagen’s harbour and canals as a place for all-year-round recreational activities is still relatively new. In fact, up until 2001, when the water was declared clean enough for swimming, the only things ending up in Copenhagen’s grimy waterways were mercury, toxic chemicals and human waste – enough to decimate most of the marine life.
Then, in the early 1990s the Copenhagen municipality set out to not only clean up the harbour and the canals but also to transform them into recreational spaces for its residents. The sewage system was modernised, and dedicated underground basins were built to retain wastewater in the event of excessive rainfall.
The cleanup took more than 10 years and proved to be a costly affair, but 30 years later, there is no doubt that the investment has paid off. The city has gained a new neighbourhood and Copenhageners a sea of opportunities and places to go. In addition to the many keen swimmers in the designated swim zones, you’ll find kayakers and stand-up paddle enthusiasts blending in with electric harbour busses, canal tours and solar-powered boats.
The transformation hasn’t gone unnoticed internationally either. In 2019, CNN voted the harbour the world’s best to swim in, just as Copenhagen often tops international liveability and sustainability rankings, with the harbour being highlighted as one of the key factors.
BIODIVERSITY IN FOCUS
The plans for the harbour come with a strong focus on protecting and increasing biodiversity. While many of the world’s oceans and water ecosystems struggle with declining biodiversity, Copenhagen’s harbour is home to dozens of fish species such as cod, seatrout, flatfish and even mackerels. And more species could become regulars in the water. A new project aims to create the world’s first sanctuary for the critically endangered European eel. This involves placing 800 tons of pebbles on the bottom of the harbour to create hiding places for juvenile eels until they grow older and bigger.
The eel project is a natural extension of existing initiatives, such as the approx. 200 biohuts installed in different parts of the harbour. Also known as “fish kindergartens”, these biohuts are made out of leftover oyster shells to provide shelter and food for juvenile fish and other small animals before they’re big enough to survive on their own in the ocean.
The fish can also seek refuge in the eelgrass growing on the seabed, which is not only proof of healthy marine life but also has a remarkable ability to trap and hold massive amounts of CO2.
Eelgrass is just one example of how Copenhagen Harbour holds many of the solutions needed for the city to tackle climate change-related challenges. Another is the creation of a new artificial island, Lynetteholm, which is designed to protect the city from future flooding caused by rising sea levels.
What started with a big clean-up is now a not-to-be-missed Copenhagen area with a central role to play for decades to come.
FIVE ECO-FRIENDLY WAYS TO EXPLORE THE HARBOUR
Stretching about 12 km kilometres from Kalvebod in the South to Svanemøllebugten in the North, Copenhagen’s harbour offers plenty of ways for Copenhageners and visitors to experience life on the water.
1. Swim in a harbour bath all year round
With 10 designated swimming zones across the harbour you’re never far from a swim in the crisp water.
One of the most popular spots is the Island Brygge Harbour Bath, which was also the first to open back in 2001. Now an iconic recreational area, it offers open-air swimming and green lawns to relax on at the heart of the city. Here, you’re likely to bump into local families with children, young people working on their tan and regular swimmers who jump in all year round.
Another popular harbour bath is the Sandkaj bath in Nordhavn. Nordhavn is a new city district which – like the harbour – has undergone a major transformation from industrial to residential. Today, it’s become a hotspot for sustainable architecture, and with its clean design and classy promenade, the Sandkaj bath is no exception. Read more about harbour baths.
2. Be your own (solar-powered) captain
One of the best ways to see Copenhagen is by boat, and if you want to go at your own pace and follow your own itinerary, the best way is to rent a boat for a couple of hours.
One of the rental companies is GoBoat. With their solar-powered boats partly made from recycled plastic bottles, they’re pioneers in sustainable boat rental. GoBoats are designed with the social experience in mind. Each boat fits eight people with a picnic table in the middle to create the best social experience. Bring your own food and drinks, or buy a picnic basket to enjoy while taking in Copenhagen’s many sights from the water.
3. Keep the waters clean while kayaking
For travellers visiting Copenhagen during summer, GreenKayak is an initiative that lets you explore the city’s waterways for free and with a green conscience.
GreenKayak launched in 2017 with 1 kayak and a goal of keeping Copenhagen’s harbour and canals clean. Today, it is a global initiative and has collected more than 100 tons of litter from the oceans.
Everyone can use a GreenKayak for free as long as they collect the rubbish they come across on their trip and share the experience on social media. You can book your kayak via the website: www.greenkayak.org
4. Join a traditional canal tour
If you prefer to kick back and let someone else do the steering while you take in Copenhagen’s many sights, a canal tour is a great option. Departing regularly from two central locations, the canal boats will take you past sights and attractions such as the Opera, Amalienborg Palace, Christianborg Palace, The Black Diamond, BLOX, and The Little Mermaid.
The tours are guided in Danish and English and sometimes a third language that varies between German, Italian, French, and Spanish. The fleet includes a couple of electric boats that are possible to rent. For more information, go to stromma.com/en-dk/copenhagen
5. Embark on the harbour circle walk
For those who prefer to stay on land, the Harbour Circle is the ultimate Copenhagen harbourside walk.
Harbour Circle covers a 13-kilometre-long walking and cycle path that runs from major sights at Nyhavn to the quiet backwaters of Christianshavn and Sydhavn. The path mixes city life and raw nature in the best way. You will pass by historical attractions and up-and-coming areas being developed at the speed of lightning. You will see unspoilt green areas, houseboats, swim zones, architectural gems and much more.
Grab your best shoes or rent a bike and let your trip of the day be the Harbour Circle. If 13 kilometres sounds like too big of a commitment, the route is designed so you can do shorter chunks of the route of two, four or seven kilometres.
For more inspiration on what to do in Copenhagen or how to find the best eco-conscious hotel or restaurant, go to A sustainability guide to Copenhagen | VisitCopenhagen or follow @visitcopenhagen on instagram.
Further reading on Sublime Magazine:
GREEN MEETINGS? COPENHAGEN HAS GOT YOU COVERED
HOW TO GET AROUND SUSTAINABLY IN COPENHAGEN
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